Chevy Cobalt Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today’s exercise was to swap out a SS Cobalts 24mm swaybar into a 2008 Cobalt LT with the original 18mm swaybar and single bolt swaybar bushing mounts.
The replacement bushings were Moog part number K200048 bushings for an 06 SS 24mm swaybar .
After safely placing the front of the Cobalt on suitable jack stands and removing both front wheels,
Remove by best means both swaybar end links.
We replaced the originals with new 250mm/9.86” long end links later.. The FE5 endlinks are shorter than the OEM FE1 endlinks
The procedure was to remove the rack by
disconnecting the tierod ends from the spindles
Using the driver’s seatbelt, lock the steering wheel from rotating (to protect the clock spring)
Disconnect the u-joint from the rack by removing the 1/2” hex head bolt clamping the u-joint to the rack input shaft. Why 1/2”....because 13mm was too loose...ymmv
Then removing the 2 bolts holding the rack to the frame.
Remove the 3 bolts for the rear transmission mount to frame and the one cross bolt for the transmission mount to transmission bracket then rotate the mount out of the way. The mount was never removed just rotated out of the way.
Now we have clear access to the swaybar bushing brackets and removed the bolts and brackets
Then remove the rack, by lifting and rotating it out of the chassis,
The sway bar was then wiggled out via the driver’s side wheel well.
The new 24mm swaybar was fitted with the blue Moog swaybar bushings and fitted into the will fit with a bit of wiggle & Rotation without any force.
Once located the original single bolt swaybar bushing clamps were locked back into position and bolted down on both sides.
The rack was reinstalled and connected to the intermediate shaft’s u-joint then bolted down
Tierod ends were torqued
New sway bar end links installed
Wheels installed and test drive.
For some reason the car seems to corner just a bit better....go figure.
Fresh Forged Lower control arms, FE5 springs Struts and Shocks would definitely help!

Say What again!
6,383 Posts
I actually managed to do it without touching (loosening or removing) the frame bolts, the steering shaft or the steering rack. But the auto is rolled forward about 5 degrees or so, leading to a bit more room behind it.

That's not to say it was easy. It took a buddy and myself a couple hours and a lot of swearing to get that stupid thing in there.
  • Like
Reactions: 1966tbird
1 - 2 of 2 Posts