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Discussion Starter #1
I got my hands on a stock pioneer sub with enclosure. I plan to wire it up to my current amp but I'm having a problem with the wiring. There are two red and two black wiring coming out of the enclosure connected to a harness.

I'm assuming I can use these wires to create a 4ohm that I need. Judging from my research the stock sub is Dual Voice Coil with two 2 ohm coils. If I wire the wires up in series I can obtain this 4ohm load. One red connected to one black and then take the remaining black and red wire and run them to my amp, positive to positive and negative to negative.

Correct me on anything that I'm wrong on. I've done sub installations and wiring before but it's odd now this sub is set up.
 

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Well you're right on all counts. That's how I did mine.
 

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Hope you didn't forget to pull the retaining bolts....
 

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i was told to wire the red together as positive to my amp and the black together as negative. lol so this is wrong?
 

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well....sounds good to me. i'll wire it this week i guess
 

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Unless you have an amp rated at 1 ohm output impedance, which I doubt, those are expensive and hard to find for car audio. The drawing above is the correct way for a 4 ohm output impedance which is the most common output for amps.
 

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so, I hooked everything up today. I have the sub wired into 4ohm series. I have the amp bridged. The amp gets really hot though.

here is the amp I purchased Pioneer GM-A3602 2-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 2 at Crutchfield.com

what would be the optimal way to hook up the sub to this amp? Since its a 2 channel amp, would it be better to hook it up in the dual 2 ohm configuration? Would it run cooler?


EDIT
I know what I did wrong. I only have once voice connected. I got in a hurry making my sub connection cable. I've disconnected the amp and I'll rework the sub cable tomorrow.
 

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I'm a bit confused about wiring this sub. I see 4 wires coming out of the enclosure (2 Red, 2 Black). I found this wiring diagram online.



Am I missing something here? You'd assume red is positive and black is negative polarity right?

This diagram just doesnt match up with what Im seeing coming out of the enclosure.

According to the diagram, pin A is Negative, B is positive, C is positive and D is negative

Here is a photo of the connector. Notice the clip lock is on top for orientation (pin stamping on connector body is covered by a clip in the photo)

here is the male side of the connector. Again, note the connector lock clip is on top for orientation. Also, you can see the pin stamping (A B) in the connector body.

See the black wire corresponding to Pin A and red to pin B? So far so good but wait...

Heres the other side (pins C and D) Shouldn't C be red? and D be Black? If you look close you can see C and D stamped into the connector.




This stereo stuff is so confusing. I can't get the sub hooked up into series properly. I have a 2 channel amp so, I'm just going to wire all 4 wires to the amp and be done with it.

I just need to know if:
1. Maybe the diagram isn't correct? It's supposedly for an 09 model year although, I'd assume the subs were the same for all model years.
2. should I ignore the diagram and follow the wire color (red-positive and black-negative)
 

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I will check mine today. If you connect 2ohms speakers directly to a 4ohms output of an amplifier chances are it will overheat and cut-off on you or worse, fry.
 

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Mine is wired exactly like yours. So you can't go by colour for polarity.
 

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I came across a bit of info from a car audio installer. He says if he is trying to determine which speaker lead is positive and which is negative, he uses a AA battery. Connect one lead to the positive side of the battery and the other to the negative. He says if the polarity is right the speaker cone should push outwards. If you have the wires reversed, the cone will be drawn inwards.

I followed the wiring diagram listed above and the sub still wasn't working. I thought maybe the previous owner did something weird with the wiring inside the sub. So, I removed the bolt in the back, removed the grille and the sub. The wiring looked fine. Nothing seems to have been messed with.

Next, I tried the battery trick following the wiring color of the leads leading out of the enclosure. Sure enough, red is positive, black is negative. I put the sub back together and plugged it back into the car.

At the amp, I had wired it according to the diagram above but from the result of the battery test, I could see I had two wires reversed for one of the voice coils. I switched them at the amp, turned on my stereo and it's working great now. The amp gets warm but doesn't get extremely hot like it was yesterday!

Now I need to dial it in.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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looks good! i wired mine up the other day. but i have my trunk strip atm so no pics
 

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Thanks! I'm working on a few ideas for the back window tray. I want to have access to the amp without disassembling everything and removing the tray.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anyone know what size bolts I need to bolt the sub in? I haven't done anything with the sub yet. Figured I'd pick up some bolts sometime from the hardware store on my way home from work this week.
 

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