You may wish for a stock 24mm Cobalt FE5 front sway bar from 2005-2008.
This would be found on any SS Cobalt and is the top of the line front sway bar for a great handling Cobalt! Be sure to replace your worn out struts and shocks to FE5 or equivalent.
You may need to dig to get NOS GM parts but there are others that still provide as good or better than original GM Cobalt FE5 components!
Be sure to order NEW sway bar bushings and sway bar end links. They are quite cheap and easy enough to replace with new! The sway bar can be removed without a major tear down.
Tie the steering wheel with front seat belt to keep it from turning,
Safety jack up and block car and remove the front wheels.
Disconnect the lower u-joint from the rack input and remove the 2 bolts holding the rack to frame.
Disconnect tie rods from spindles and remove the sway bar end links. Now you can remove the sway bar clamps and wiggle the sway bar out from driver’s side wheel well...
Install in reverse order
Like @1966tbird said, You will have to upgrade your shocks and struts / spring combination. There are 3 levels of sway bars that work on these cars (Cobalts, G5 and Ions). The base suspension is the FE1, followed by FE3 and lastly FE5 being the best FACTORY handling suspension for these cars. As the suspension improves on this list, the p[arts also become better, stronger and such.
19-mm front stabilizer bar
16-mm rear stabilizer bar
Stamped steel front lower control arms
22-mm front and rear stabilizer bars
Cast aluminum front lower control arms
FE3 shocks and springs
FE5 suspension - 2005-07 years
24-mm front stabilizer bar
FE5 shocks and struts. The springs may be different from some FE3 models.
Larger front end links
FE5 suspension - 2008 and up years
24-mm rear stabilizer bar
NEW FE5(LNF) shocks, struts, and springs.
Updated front knuckle
NOW...if you looking to ONLY do sway bars, you will have to ALSO replace the bushings. As the sway bar size increases, the bushing you have on your car will not work. The hole or opening for the bushing will have to change. You can get the bushings and end links almost anywhere and are readily available (I used MOOG bushings and end links).
I recently had an issue with a broken sway bar and I could NOT locate a 22 mm front sway bar for my '07 G5 GT. I had to upgrade to a FE5 (24mm) sway bar. I recently had my struts, springs and shocks replaced within a year and I have the FE5 springs. I didn't have to upgrade the rest of my suspension...HOWEVER...my suspension was already the FE3 with the upgraded springs. I looked for a sway bar for at least a week, before I managed to find ONE through LKQ.
You may also have to replace your sway bar bushing brackets. They are discontinued through G.M., so you're going to have an issue if yours are bad. I had to make a set for my car
I live in the rust belt and this is/was my sway bar bracket (rusted beyond use)
Here is a collage of pictures I put together illustrating how I made the bracket (using 2" flat iron bar, 1/4" rolled iron bar, a torch, saw and some other hand tools):
Just wondering, why are you needing to replace the sway bar? Had it rusted out or was it damaged? Or just wanting to upgrade to a larger size.
My sway bar had started to clunk. Making me think it was the sway bar links, I checked those. But we’re still fairly tight. It turned out the frame bushings were the sound I was hearing. While they weren’t super loose, new ones fixed the problem.
Also read a GM TSB that notes the bushings may need to be replaced. Some fixes were done with wrapping electrical tape around the bar using the original bushings. I’m guessing those were done at the dealership or under warranty where they didn’t want to supply a new part. New bushings were like $15.
Anyways I have though about doing the larger sway bar with some FE5 control arms, struts, and Eibach springs. Not sure if that’s the direction you’re going though.