[wrbrb]

2010 Cobalt, while driving in a straight line and speed reaches about 20-30 mph and beyond, there is a tapping/clicking/knocking sound that seems to be coming from the steering column or around the firewall on the driver's side in that general area. If I turn the steering wheel to just a couple degrees left or right of dead center while driving, the sound disappears completely. If I hit the brakes at around 40 mph or so, the noise seems to intensify, and continues all the way until the vehicle comes to a stop. The sound is consistent with vehicle speed, not rpms. At first I thought it was a loose panel under the steering column flapping around, but after some research I'm wondering if this could be intermediate shaft related or steering motor related.

A mechanic took it for a test drive and had it up on a lift and didn't see anything that would be concerning suspension-wise. The brakes seemed fine and he said he hadn't really heard anything exactly like that before. He said the right inner tie rod end was slightly loose, but he wouldn't think that would be transferred all the way back to the steering column and making such a sound.

Any ideas? Does this sound familiar to the experts here? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[1966tbird]

Check or replace the sway bar bushings. That’s a $10 problem and $50 to check or replace……so expect $20 retail shop price for parts and $100 labor…or get them your self and spend about 30min to an hour installing them….on a 1 to 5 scale with 1 being filling the windshield wiper fluid….it’s a 2.5

 

[wrbrb]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm not sure that's the problem, I listened to the sound on some videos and don't believe it's the same thing. Can be on a totally flat road for a considerable time, maintaining the same speed, and it continues to happen until you barely move the steering wheel. I would think moving the steering wheel would cause a noise if it was sway bar related, rather than stopping the noise. But I appreciate the reply and suppose for $20 I could replace them just in case.

 

[TurboCobalt2009]

It can be one of two things. It can be either the steering column at the bottom of the column or the intermediate steering shaft. Start with the shaft. Mark the shaft in relation to the connection to the steering column. Remove the pinch bolt at the steering column to shaft. Push the shaft down. With the shaft removed, pump the shaft up and down like 6 times. Reconnect the shaft to the column making sure you connect it back where it was marked. Then go for a drive and see if the noise went away. If it did then you're done. This problem is not unique to the Cobalt. It was a problem on many GM vehicles in that time period. The lubricant in the steering shaft drops down the tube and creates play making the clunking sound. By pumping the shaft up and down you're redistributing the lubricant. If the noise still remains then the non serviceable gears at the bottom of the steering column assembly have developed some minor play. Either of these problems are not a safety issue. They are just annoying noises. I had this happen on my 2009 CobaltSS both problems. I was just lucky I was a technician at a Chevrolet dealership and I was able to warranty the column and steering shaft. If it's your column you have to buy a new one which if it's still available is pretty expensive. Getting a used one will probably make the same noise. Hope that helps. Hopefully it's just the steering shaft.

 

[wrbrb]

Thank you so much for all the detail!

Would the grease needing redistribution cause the tapping/clicking sound only while the steering wheel is pointed perfectly straight?

I'm also wondering if you could confirm this is the pinch bolt, part to move up and down, and the parts to mark for realignment?

And do you know where I could find the torque requirement for the pinch bolt when reinstalling?

 

[TurboCobalt2009]

Thank you so much for all the detail!

Would the grease needing redistribution cause the tapping/clicking sound only while the steering wheel is pointed perfectly straight?

I'm also wondering if you could confirm this is the pinch bolt, part to move up and down, and the parts to mark for realignment?

And do you know where I could find the torque requirement for the pinch bolt when reinstalling?

View attachment 20531

View attachment 20530

The first picture is the actual steering column. Where you put the green mark is where you disconnect the pinch bolt for the intermediate steering shaft. Mark the position of where the shaft and steering column stub connects and only disconnect the shaft from there. You don't have to disconnect the other end from the rack and pinion. Then as the second picture shows with green marks push that shaft up and down about 6-8 times then reconnect back to the steering column. The pinch bolt is torqued to 25 lb ft. Also before removing the shaft from the column try to open the gap on the shaft after you remove the pinch bolt. Don't widen too much just enough to make it easier to remove. Like I said in the previous post this is one of two problems that can cause this noise. This is going to be a process of elimination. If after doing this the noise is still there then it is the internal gear clash noise from the steering column which is the area where the electric motor attaches to the column. These gears are not serviceable. Don't attempt to take apart the column. It will damage it. Again hopefully the shaft is the source of the noise. That shaft can make random clunks while turning or going straight but the column itself internally can do that to. Good luck 🤞

 

[wrbrb]

Thanks again! Is this pinch bolt correctly marked with the red arrow? And would it be accessible from inside the vehicle on the driver's side near the pedals/firewall?

 

[1966tbird]

yes, you have marked the pinch bolt, right at the connection to your steering rack. And No, it can’t be accessed from inside the car. It can be accessed just behind the drivers wheel.

 

[wrbrb]

I thought per post #4 I was disconnecting the shaft only at the steering column, not at the steering rack. Leaving it connected at the steering rack to pump it to distribute the lubricant, and then reconnecting. I also think the photo of the intermediate shaft is oriented upside down, so the part I marked is actually the cabin side...

 

[UncommonSensesc]

It can be one of two things. It can be either the steering column at the bottom of the column or the intermediate steering shaft. Start with the shaft. Mark the shaft in relation to the connection to the steering column. Remove the pinch bolt at the steering column to shaft. Push the shaft down. With the shaft removed, pump the shaft up and down like 6 times. Reconnect the shaft to the column making sure you connect it back where it was marked. Then go for a drive and see if the noise went away. If it did then you're done. This problem is not unique to the Cobalt. It was a problem on many GM vehicles in that time period. The lubricant in the steering shaft drops down the tube and creates play making the clunking sound. By pumping the shaft up and down you're redistributing the lubricant. If the noise still remains then the non serviceable gears at the bottom of the steering column assembly have developed some minor play. Either of these problems are not a safety issue. They are just annoying noises. I had this happen on my 2009 CobaltSS both problems. I was just lucky I was a technician at a Chevrolet dealership and I was able to warranty the column and steering shaft. If it's your column you have to buy a new one which if it's still available is pretty expensive. Getting a used one will probably make the same noise. Hope that helps. Hopefully it's just the steering shaft.

If you're saying that the intermediate steering shaft going bad isn't a safety issue, then you're wrong. Well, let me rephrase that - I know that Ford, Chrysler and Dodge steering shafts have collapse features and specs when they're manufactured. People like to keep their steering even if they have an accident.

 

[TurboCobalt2009]

yes, you have marked the pinch bolt, right at the connection to your steering rack. And No, it can’t be accessed from inside the car. It can be accessed just behind the drivers wheel.

Make sure before you remove the shaft from the steering column, to put the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. Where ever

If you're saying that the intermediate steering shaft going bad isn't a safety issue, then you're wrong. Well, let me rephrase that - I know that Ford, Chrysler and Dodge steering shafts have collapse features and specs when they're manufactured. People like to keep their steering even if they have an accident.

If the steering intermediate shaft, which connects the steering column to the rack and pinion, is only noisy it's not a safety issue. I'm not talking about the shaft within the steering column. That shaft if collapsed from an accident is a safety issue.

 

[TurboCobalt2009]

You will be able to remove the pinch bolt inside the car under the dash. The orientation of the pinch bolt position will be wherever it is when you put the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. When removing the pinch bolt orient the steering wheel so you can remove it. But before removing the shaft from the steering column put the steering wheel in the straight ahead position.

 

[wrbrb]

@TurboCobalt2009 I am putting the steering wheel in whatever position I need to remove the one pinch bolt at the top of the intermediate shaft (which is accessible from the passenger compartment under the steering column), marking the alignment between the intermediate shaft and the steering column with a sharpie across the two, removing the pinch bolt, turning the wheel back to center with the pinch bolt removed, disconnecting the top end of the intermediate shaft from the steering column, pumping it up and down a few times while still connected at the bottom/rack end, lining the steering column and intermediate shaft lines back up where the sharpie mark was, putting the pinch bolt back in, turning it back so it's able to be reached to tighten, and torquing to 25 Ft-lbs ...correct?

Edit: updated per your latest comment

 

[TurboCobalt2009]

@TurboCobalt2009 I am putting the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, marking the alignment between the intermediate shaft and the steering column with a sharpie across the two, just removing one pinch bolt at the top side of the intermediate shaft, accessible from the passenger compartment up under the dash, pumping it up and down a few times while still connected at the bottom/rack end, lining the steering column and intermediate shaft lines back up where the sharpie mark was, putting the pinch bolt back in, and torquing to 25 Ft-lbs ...correct?

Exactly 100%. Now sometimes if after you put the steering shaft back on to the steering column the steering wheel is not where it was before, you will have to disconnect it and move it one tooth over either direction. The teeth on the steering column stub are a fine pitch so even if you marked it, it might be a tooth off. You will know when you drive the car if the steering wheel is in the position it was before you removed the shaft.

 

[wrbrb]

@TurboCobalt2009 thanks for the additional tips. I edited my post after your reply to specify the exact process, including moving of the steering wheel. Does that still seem correct to you? Just want to make sure that's accurate regarding the timing of the alignment and the movement of the steering wheel.

 

[TurboCobalt2009]

@TurboCobalt2009 thanks for the additional tips. I edited my post after your reply to specify the exact process, including moving of the steering wheel. Does that still seem correct to you? Just want to make sure that's accurate regarding the timing of the alignment and the movement of the steering wheel.

You have it correct. 👍. Like I said. If this doesn't resolve your noise then it's the steering column assembly itself internally. I tied to take a warrantied one apart and the internal wiring for a sensor integral to the column breaks. That's why you can't take apart the actual steering column assembly to try and add lubricant to the internal gears. Those internal gears have the same problem as the steering shaft. The lubricant liquefies from heat making too much play between the gears and make noise. The only solution is the buy a whole new column, which is pricey, and it might last a couple years without noise. It's basically a known design flaw with no real fix. Sorry for the long rambling but just trying to give you an insight into this known problem.