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Epoxy came off with a little effort by hand/screwdriver...but I did the soapy water test with my air compressor, and I'm not sure these ever were leaking in the first place. The later ones supposedly aren't as well-known to leak.

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Cleaned up the main casting and throttle plate a bit:




Main casting and throttle plate reassembled:


New needle and seat installed


New float installed:


Mixture control solenoid, metering rods and power piston reinstalled:


New accelerator pump installed and TPS reinstalled:


I also reinstalled the choke housing and linkage, so I should be just about ready to install the air horn tomorrow.
 

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All back together aside from the fuel inlet:


Much cleaner:


All complete:





New versus old gasket - I'm not sure why they aren't the same:


Carb back on the car - looks a bit cleaner than it did before:


Too bad after all this work, the car idles richer than shit, and is pretty pissed off - I have succeeded in essentially making my vehicle worse.

I tried for a couple hours to see if I could mess with it, but it's dark out, I can't seem to get any dwell reading off the green diagnostic connector, and it's still stupidly rich. It also tried to restart once on the first shut down, so, that's a great sign.

Sigh, great waste of a week...
 

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Pulled the carb back out on Wednesday and got the air horn pulled off on Thursday, then I adjusted the float to 11/32" (as specified) down from the surface of the main casting and put the needle pull clip in the correct spot (not the conveniently-located, and more secure holes right there - because I guess those can cause the needle to bind and flood the carb a bit.

Pull clip - it sits pretty loose here:


Float adjusted to the proper level - a good bit lower than it was. Oops.
 

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Got the Mach-1 style chin spoiler installed on my brother's Mustang after we got back from the night we spent in downtown Detroit.

We had got the holes drilled last week (when we also installed the Mach 1 grille/filler panel, and replaced the LH HID ballast for the projector lights), but the included fasteners were garbage , so we waited until my brother was able to get metal bolts to replace the shitty plastic ones they came with (the base of the clip was fine).

Totally finishes off the front end (aside from the projectors needing to go back on):




The SVE spoiler actually is slightly longer than the OEM Mach 1 spoiler, so it doesn't come up short of the wheel well:
 

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Replaced the NOx #2 sensor...again (last time was February 2018...on my birthday...on the same day we were supposed to go up north...).

Only took me about an hour this time - took me three days total last time.


 

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Pulled the Idle Air Bleed Valve out to check the O-rings since, for whatever reason, I didn't the first time. Upper O-ring looked mostly fine, but the lower one was a bit...flat:



Upper O-rings - new (left) vs old (right):


Lower O-rings - new (left) vs old (right) - can see how much "flatter" the old one was:
 

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Carb's back on the car - doesn't run perfect by any means, but boy is it night and day compared to what it was like the last time. Now I think I can work with this and get it dialed in (hopefully).

Don't seem to have the vacuum leak (as audibly) like it did last time, nor does it smell rich as hell. Seems to idle a bit low, but maybe that could be due to the idle air bleed being back to the "stock" setting. Need to get the dwell reading to work and get that all tweaked.
 

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Changed the front brake pads and rotors today on the CTD - went with AC Delco GM Original Equipment (not Advantage or Professional) for both.



RF brakes, prior to disassembly:





Pretty clear the outer pad has a little life left, while the inner...does not.





And removing the pads...it's pretty clear what the loud rumbling noise was coming from the RF brake...no pad left at all.





RF rotor after 100k mile...and metal to metal on the inner pad for a bit...







Caliper bracket and the absolutely massive M14 bolts holding it in place:







Old vs New rotors:







New rotor in place:





New vs old pads...that inner pad...yikes:









New parts installed:







Left front pads - not nearly as bad as the right side:







Old left front rotor - the inner side definitely was starting to wear a bit weird:







Delicious:





New versus old:











New parts installed:







All done - just need to burnish them!







I'm probably going to end up on my HOA's page as to why there was a black Cruze driving around, stopping randomly, but they're all "broken in"...and so much better. Car hasn't stopped this good in quite some time.
 

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You may!

What are we liking? :laugh:
 

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I had intended to get this done yesterday, but the axle nut had other ideas - even with heat from my MAP torch, and a jack handle on my breaker bar - and me bouncing on the end of the jack handle, it would not break loose.

My breaker bar, however,*did*break - absolutely insane!*

My brother stopped by work on his way down with the Mustang (to put the winter tires on, prior to driving it over to Alternative Auto to drop it off and get the 93 tune done) and grabbed a pair of Snap-On breaker bars for me to use for the job - as well as one hell of a badass Milwaukee cordless 18V impact...which will do 1300 ft-lbs of torque.*

Needless to say, that was fairly into "I wasn't asking" territory, and it did the job right away. I have*got*to get me one of those (but...maybe*not*that one...I believe the price is somewhere just below $600!).

Anyway, got the old wheel bearing/hub assembly out...in more than one piece (explains why the sensor was starting to go out, more than likely), and got the new one put in (a Mevotech TitanXF series bearing which I must say...is a damn sexy looking piece!). No more "Brake" warning light, and no more loud noises when turning right, so my brother is good to go for the winter (I did get him swapped over to the Arctics on that vehicle too).







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Gotta be careful with those breaker bars, assuming it was one of the auto parts store brands or something? My dad was using a brand new one from o'Reillys a few years back to take lugnuts off a car, the thing snapped and his hand went straight into the wheel well with all of that force behind it, broke a finger or two in the process
 

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Yup - "GM Performance" brand - think I got it from O'Reilly (or maybe it was still Murrays at that point), but a good number of years ago, so it has served me plenty well.

I could feel the bar flexing at the head, so I was making sure I was positioned in such a way where my jaw wasn't going to go full force into the fender of the car or something. So when it snapped, it A) wasn't all that surprising and B) I didn't go anywhere violently.
 

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Popped in and out!
 

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Decided to take advantage of the sunshine (a rare commodity these days) and go install the Diode Dynamics LEDs in the Cruze. Apologies for the absolutely filthy car (made worse by the fact I quickly...quick detailed the lights)!

Worth noting, all of these pictures are in direct sunlight - so even a stock taillight wouldn't be all that visible, but it just makes it all the more impressive just how much brighter these things are. The reverse lights probably still won't illuminate much, but the light is much whiter in color, so they look a lot better. They still are brighter, so any bit helps. Will be exciting to see how they look tonight, in the dark. So at, you know, 5 o'clock. :lol:

Right side lights (510 lumen XP80 tail/brake lights and 410 lumen XP50 reverse lights) installed, to compare to the stockers on the left side. You can barely even tell the left lights are on (again, not in the best of lighting circumstances), while the right sides are definitely something you can see.

Taillights on:


Brake lights on:



Reverse lights on:



Left side comparison - the trunk tail has the new bulb, while the main tail has the stock bulb:


Stock reverse light versus DD XP50 LED. Please ignore the dog hair:



Stock tail/brake light vs DD XP80 LED. Again, ignore the aforementioned dog hair:



All done! Taillights on:




Taillights and Brake lights on:


Taillights, Brake lights and Reverse lights on:

 

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Got a picture, now that it is dark out. This is where the impact is clear - these things make it seem like the lights lenses aren't pitch black at all. The reverse lights might actually be useful at night, way brighter than I was expecting from what I saw during the day.

 
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