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Another productive day - even though it was a bit warmer, it was cloudy and windy, so not any better. Either way, it could've been worse.

Got the K&N short-ram intake (with AMSOIL filter and K&N drycharger) installed, and then the Trifecta tune uploaded.

Stock air box/intake:




All installed:




And then a new license plate frame to tie in with the tune (the old frame sticker was peeling pretty good, so it was time):


The intake is crazy loud - the turbo is crazy audible (it was already), especially when you let off the throttle quickly. The tune...I can't say I notice too much, but the engine has a decent sized snail, so it might be harder to notice as turbo lag won't just suddenly disappear.
 

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How do you like the Cruz overall?
Ill be looking for a new vehicle in a month or two. They are on my list to check out.

Give me some time to start gutting my ion sedan for the lsj-t swap
 

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This guy spray painted his cobalt and it turned out awesome!
I like how that dude's like "I don't care if it damages the clear coat, this car's a piece of garbage" but also "I miss driving it. It's really engaging and fun to drive."

Gotta agree on the engaging and fun to drive part. I'm really missing driving my 'balt around.
 

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Say What again!
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That's pretty funny.

I always miss mine during the winter. Need to get whatever my fuel issue is sorted out before next year.
 

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Made good use of the weather today:

Got my brother's oil change done on the Buick, then he got the harness all taped up (after I soldered up the suspect area just a touch and taped over the spot) and we got it put back in the car (not particularly enjoyable, but apparently not as bad as removing it - I also covered the ripped area of the heat wrap on the EGR tube with more heat wrap). We fired it up and could immediately tell how much smoother it sounded at idle - there always was just that slight hesitation at idle that we never picked up on until after we knew that cylinder five wasn't firing - not anymore. Let it run for probably 15-20 minutes and the coil didn't explode, so I think that's a good sign.

After a little solder on the area where the insulation had broken (after cutting it away to investigate), I taped it up, so it should be good to go (we checked continuity and all was good).


Can you tell which coil is new and which is bad?


Harness all taped back up, ready to go back in the car:





Back in the car!





 

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This was back on the 9th:

Got the front end of the Camaro up in the air today, so I could pull the O2 sensor out and make a true extension harness and not have to cut up the new O2 that I bought for the car when I put the headers in.

I also pulled the front wheels off to check on why the brakes were basically screeching any time I used them the last time I drove the car - the RF inner pad's squealer (or more like "screecher") was touching the rotor. I've still got about 1/4" of pad left, so I bent the tab back a bit so I can run them down a touch more.

From today:

Got around to tackling this today - this will be light years better than a simply-extended O2 sensor, and will allow me to use a sensor that isn't a questionable number of decades old...with the side benefit of not turning the sensor wiring into a giant spiral. I can get this "permanently" mounted into the vehicle and just disconnect right at the sensor end.

So I probably should order a new coolant sensor for the top, maybe.

 

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Installed the new O2 sensor today...and the car literally sat at 700 RPM for 20 minutes. It never jumped up and went all over the place like it used to. It idled flawlessly. Rev it up, and they came back down - they didn't hang up.

My assumption is that the old O2 (picture below) was reading lean, so that "jump" in RPM I always noticed was the car going into closed loop, where it would just throw fuel into the carb to "correct" it, causing the revs to spike up, and hang.



Once it's a touch warmer, I'll get coverage back on the car and take it out and see if it truly solved the issues!
 

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Finally got Android Auto working on the head unit I put in last summer - I bought the parking brake bypass last August, but never got around to putting it in (the Pioneer head unit needs a parking brake signal to be able to set up Android Auto, but it looks for the power-side signal compared to other head units which look at the ground, so I went this route - this isn't so I can watch DVDs while I'm driving, haha). I also tidied up everything back there to hopefully stop them from rattling while the car shakes at idle (because poly/solid mounts) and driving me insane.

 

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Since it's not really going anywhere (aside from to the grocery store every week or two), it might as well be clean since it sits just outside the kitchen window and we look at it every day. Always nice to do the first wash and wax of the season, get all that winter "off", though it really wasn't all that dirty since whenever the last touchless wash it got.





 

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Made good use of this last beautiful day to wash and wax the Volt - always forget just how much I detest waxing white cars. But it's clean and shiny - just in time for the weather to get cold. Probably my fault, washing/waxing these two cars and having changed them off the winter tires.




 

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I've had the door panels out of the car for a week or two now, but I'm just finally getting around the the door panel inner felts.

From the factory, they are stapled to the door panel's plastic top roll. The right door's felt is still pretty good - not entirely as flexible as it should be, but it does move. A far cry from the driver side's, which is mostly gone - what is left is rock solid and just breaks off if you try to move it.

The issue I am going to be encountering is the plastic top rolls - they are not in great shape. They have cracks and some chunks missing on the outboard-most flanges, which means they are (unsurprisingly) brittle, which may make it a bit of a task to get the old staples out and the new ones in.

Normally, I would just purchase new top rolls, as the rest of the door panels are useable (they're not even close to pristine, but they work - they also have the holes already in them for the giant ribbon tweeters in the car). However, does anyone make a replacement? Not at all! You can either get the entire door panel, or you can have nothing. This means I need to work with what I have, as I have no intention on buying another set of door panels, and then cutting giant holes in them.

My plan is to reinforce the top rolls as best I can to keep them from breaking apart while I remove the old felts/staples and install the new ones. It also will help to keep them intact afterwards, while on the vehicle.

The back side of the RH door panel: Note the two large section-wide cracks around the door lock rod as well as one further forward.




I cleaned off the top roll, to make sure my chosen method of reinforcement, Gorilla Tape, will adhere the best it possibly can, but it doesn't really look any different. That's where I stopped, to let any remaining cleaner evaporate.

Later in the evening, I got a knock on my door - it was the UPS delivery guy checking to see if a package was mine - the middle (of five) digit was wrong on the address, and the barcode said shipment wasn't even the same as the mostly-correct address it listed. How that happened, he nor I had any clue - thankfully he clearly was an employee that actually cares, and knocked on the door at 8:30PM to check if this was actually mine.

Because my torsion springs that normally hold the trunk open are broken (well, one is), and are absolutely terrifying to try and replace (shattering the rear window with them is a very real possibility) and usually stop working shortly thereafter, I went the more modern route: a strut:

 

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Got the RH felt off...not particularly enjoyable, but my pocket knife came in the most handy. Reinforced a good bit before, as well as locally too. Then more after I got the felt off. I will be able to reuse a few of the holes, which will probably be handy.




 

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New (left/bottom) vs old felts - the old one really wasn't in bad shape, but did have a section of the base missing that I don't think really affected the function at all.



All installed! Used some headliner/carpet adhesive that I had to stick the vinyl wrapping back down on top of the plastic where it was (mostly) stuck before, just to make sure it stayed where it was supposed to. I'm glad I did, because this is a pain in the ass, and I didn't need another thing to worry about.




So that's one down, one to go - hopefully the second door panel is a little quicker, as I have a better idea how to attack each element.
 

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Started on the driver's door panel very briefly yesterday (just getting the main layer of tape on the bottom of the top roll), but really got to work on it today.

This was what I was starting with today, and pretty obvious why this side needed to be replaced. What little was left of the "upright" felt is rock hard:



Needless to say: it went much quicker and was far easier, as I had a plan of attack based on my knowledge of the other side. What also helped is that the majority of the staples had broken the plastic away and were therefore not attached to the top roll - only the vinyl wrapping. Much easier to bend those staple legs out!

Even trying to get the staples out that were loose led to the base just breaking and crumbling apart.




All removed:



New (left/bottom) vs old (right/top). Pretty obvious why this needs replacement.




Top flange reinforced, and vinyl wrapping re-stuck down like it should be

 

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Boy this second door took seemingly no time at all - wayyyy easier and quicker to do this one...especially once I realized I didn't need to stand the door panel up to drill the holes...just as easily done with it flat on the table, as the flat of the felt base is basically horizontal, haha.

I used a couple less staples on this side, but that more-so relates to the where/how many bad sections of plastic there were that I knew wouldn't be good to staple into. I had larger sections on this one, but they seemed to be dispersed between where staples would be going anyway (I was shooting for one every six inches or so), whereas the other panel, while in better shape, needed staples closer than the ~6" to avoid some bad sections.

This is going to look significantly better in-car!





 

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Fixed (hopefully) the LH door handle escutcheon, which has sat on the workbench since I got the car (the broken part, where the screw holds it on, has stayed attached to the car). The broken piece had a very tight fit, thankfully, so the superglue has a lot of surface area to make use of.





Will be nice not to have a big open hole behind the door handle.
 

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Switching gears a good bit (awaiting a roll of butyl tape to arrive, and then need to figure out what I want to do regarding the clips I need), I focused on the trunk of the car. I have new weatherstripping in the basement for the trunk, and I would like to install that, as the current (factory) weatherstrip could use replacing. It's not in terrible shape, but it also is a shape, so there's probably not a perfect seal around it anymore. The trunk floor is completely solid, but the rear of the underside of the trunk lid is not - but that's another task.

Before going fully into the weatherstrip replacement, I wanted to get the trunk strut on, since I know the trunk fits how it should right now, just in case it caused any issues.

The trunk as it sat at the beginning - with the requisite broom handle keeping the trunk lid open:


Some closer shots of the current weatherstripping - the rear section doesn't look too great, and the front section doesn't look like it's even fully in the channel:



Trunk strut installed - no more broom handle!





 
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