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Discussion Starter #1
i just want to see what you guys think about some of these parts I'm looking at.
especially the cams, pistons, and valve springs. I'm trying to get as much power as i can from my NA 2.2 i don't want to go supercharged and turbo until a lot later.

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Pistons and valve springs do not add power. If you're looking to keep it n/a, replacing your pistons is useless. If you're an 07+, cams aren't worth it either as it will cost you quite a bit of money to get them to work properly and more money to get bolt ons to get the most out of them

---------- Post added at 11:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 AM ----------

You also don't need valves

---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ----------

Don't get eibach. Go with powell yyz and get a good rear sway bar as that eibach one is trash. Front sway bar is not necessary. Zzp catback is too expensive for what it is

---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:13 AM ----------

Or if you want more of a drop, get some h&r or ssc springs
 

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Levee
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Pistons and valve springs do not add power. If you're looking to keep it n/a, replacing your pistons is useless. If you're an 07+, cams aren't worth it either as it will cost you quite a bit of money to get them to work properly and more money to get bolt ons to get the most out of them
SMH, I'm sad to see you say this. Pistons can/do add power Banker, you know this. They add power, just slightly tho. If you use higher compression you actually get more hp and a little torque. However, the rest of that is true, valve springs are only good for handling more boost or higher rpms to keep from valve float.
 

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Compression ratio adds the power, which is dictated by MUCH MORE THAN THE PISTON YOU BUY. That's just part of the puzzle.

So, you're both right.

And also, you're wrong on valvesprings.

Tired, worn springs...or springs not rated for a certain RPM will tend to float. That, will cause more power loss, knock, and whatever else you want to add in there than the piston or compression choice you make.

Oh, the facts.
 

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Levee
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i did say valve springs help from valve float :)

---------- Post added at 02:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:38 PM ----------

don't forget guys, I build race engines for a living lol
 

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banker said they didn't add power.

You agreed with that.

While listing VF as an issue, you went with the not adding power...when in fact they can if the current setup is floating.

:)

I don't build race engines for a living, but I've been tinkering with cars since I was little. It's not rocket science if you've been around it most of your life.
 

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Levee
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banker said they didn't add power.

You agreed with that.

While listing VF as an issue, you went with the not adding power...when in fact they can if the current setup is floating.

:)

I don't build race engines for a living, but I've been tinkering with cars since I was little. It's not rocket science if you've been around it most of your life.
That statement is completely true, and being around it all the time it's almost second nature to know the technical stuff that is needed when building high HP machines. Not many regular Joe Blows off the street can just sit down and build a 700+whp machine on their own. Most people that do that have done countless research. Building an engine isn't just as simple as tossing stuff in it (tho to people like me who do this every day it is lol). There is a lot of detail that is put into properly building an engine like that.

And yes as that statement about VF is true that you said, that isn't applicable on a NA build unless you're running 8k+ rpms as the springs aren't strong enough to return the valve to the seat fast enough. Most people don't see valve float unless they are revving to almost 10k rpms, OR running more boost on an FI car than the springs are rated for. So for an NA build (which the OP was specifying), unless he is making a rev queen type of motor, valve springs won't add power. :) Sorry, should have been more specific.:amuse:
 

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i just want to see what you guys think about some of these parts I'm looking at.
especially the cams, pistons, and valve springs. I'm trying to get as much power as i can from my NA 2.2 i don't want to go supercharged and turbo until a lot later.

eBay
I have the adapter plate and throttle body your looking for up for sale in the classifieds section for that 2.4 manifold. If your going to stick to NA on your 2.2, you dont need to waste money on internals. The intake manifold, long tube headers, and throttle body are a good choice. If your 2.2 is a LAP and has VVT then Hptuners and a custom tune is also another good investment to make power, as you can gain power by having a competent tuner adjust the VVT and timing accordingly.

The ricer mods I cant speak on, that's your own flavor. I can tell you that you do need a adapter harness kit with a special control module to bypass the CANBUS if you do go with an aftermarket head unit. I can also tell you that ive seen good results from the eibach kit you posted, although there is alot of mixed feelings regarding the longevity of eibach springs. Personally ive never seen anyone have an issue with them first hand. I went with CM springs myself, but the biggest upgrade you can give your suspension is FE5 or FE3 struts/shocks along with your choice of springs. (thats the sport tuned or race tuned suspension setups from factory GM cobalt SS models)

---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:41 PM ----------

If i may also make a recommendation, go with the OTTP long tube headers with the cat, not the ZZP. IMO the OTTP headers are much better quality, i had nothing but issues with my ZZP mid length header setup.
 

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So to answer the original question posed by the OP, those are exactly the parts I would put in if I was building my engine as far as companies go. lol at all the back and forth!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for all the info guys. ya i just want to push out as much power as i can from my NA. and i think the info i got from you guys i know now what i need to get. and the body kit im looking at is cheaper then me trying to find the ss stuff. if i could get a full ss kit for 500$ then i would go for it, but the rk sport one is cool looking to me. and i never really liked the high or lo rise wing so I'm going with a big lip wing and the rk sport hood.but anyway thanks guys, big help.
 

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I got an entire SS body from Mongo for $500, it's just a matter of finding it at the right time. I'm staying wingless. Also expect to spend another $500-700 on paint unless you know someone to get the body properly installed and painted.

I really recommend going SC since it's relatively reliable, you want to build the engine at it is and you'll make much more power than you will with those parts NA. You can be SC and making more power than a fully bolted NA car for less money (although a exhaust mods would help both the SC and NA).
 

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i wouldnt worry about worn valve springs in your na. unless you hang at 6k all day
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i know how to sand and paint so thats no problem for me, but where did you get those parts for the ss body kit i looked yup Mongo, but couldn't find anything. and I'm still looking for someone who would want to trade there wingless trunk for my low rid trunk.
 

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He's a good guy
 

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What I want for my balt ???? I want it to run like before my balt in these pics on here was totaled in June and got a new one ,did a engine swap and stuff and sent my p'cm to zzp (which I will never do again )and they didn't even tune it right and runs bad its parked now cause it won't go in gear now unless I play with clutch that what I want lol any help would be appreciated ,thanks all
 

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Him and Chad often buy totaled balts and he always has a ton of parts. Mine came from a hurricane car that was destroyed last year and finally sold this year.

I believe he's only active on CSS and Facebook.
 
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