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Sorry for being the "new guy" with the annoying question. But, since CED stopped selling the kit for the 2.4 im swap, what parts do you need and where do you find them? I only ask because there's mention of adapter plates and a gasket for the breather or some such nonsense. Didn't know if it was straight bolt on for the 2.2 or if there was some trickery involved.
 

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What year balt do you have?

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

Nvm 07. Its really not going to give you a noticeable difference. Ced was raping people with the price they had for like 2hp lol.
 

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You'll need the adapter plate if you're going to install the LSJ TB (from the supercharged Cobalt) onto the 2.4 manifold. It's a bit larger than the 2.4 TB hence it will not fit without the adapter plate and harness. ZZP sells the kit. Might be worth a hp or two over the simple LE5 combo.
 

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Stupid question here. Forgive me im new. So the 2005 model year 2.2 doesnt have the secondary air injection pump? Im lookin to buy the injen intake but need to know if it has this because it said its not for the one with the SAI
 

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Since this is a Intake thread I was excited to share that I finally got my K&N 69-4515TS Typhoon air intake system installed. Sounds and looks great! Easy installation I already notice the improvement when I took her for a ride today.



 

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My GMPP intake has crappy connections which gets loosened which I tighten up constantly. Might look into parts for easy fitment like off Spectre. Then again, it's just for that throaty sound...literally.
 

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Since this is a Intake thread I was excited to share that I finally got my K&N 69-4515TS Typhoon air intake system installed. Sounds and looks great! Easy installation I already notice the improvement when I took her for a ride today.

I can't imagine that heat shield makes that good a seal with the hood once it's shut. You're probably getting some heat soak in there. It wouldn't hurt your MPGs though.

I'm a strong believer in the 'you get what you pay for' philosophy, so I've never cheaped out on questionable parts by no-name manufactures. Not saying spending 2x on an intake will make your car 2x faster, but it's a principle that I've found very difficult to ignore.
 

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quick review of zzperformance intake

Sirs,
2 months ago I brought zzperformance cold air intake tube for my 07 Chevy Cobalt LS 2.2L with 150k miles on it . Why? I did some research on the various intakes out there, and most of the gains even with a cone filter seemed to be 7 hp (part # ZZ-LE5-HFINTK). The air intake tube go rid of the factory air intake tubing between the air box and the throttle body, and for good measure I put in a K&N Oem filter (#33-2111) to replace the dirty OEM filter. For the first day, my computer tried to adjust the mpg on my car. I normally averaged 17 mpg, and the car went up to 22 mpg; this may have been to the OEM filter, which I had NEVER changed! The next day the city mileage had been readjusted back down to the normal 17 mpg.
The bad thing about this mod is that there was a supplied a nitrile connector from the air intake tube and the throttle body that was 3" inner diameter. My OEM thottle body was 2.75" and the supplied connector couldn't work with this. I had to get a Vibrant performance tubing elbow 90 degree that was 2.75" to 3" to make this work, which was additonal $80 bucks from Summit Racing. Once I got this, the intallation was easy. I would reccommend that you measure the throttle body before getting zzperformance air intake tube before getting it.
I did ALSO notice that the mpg on the hwy went up. Before my mpg started going down (even from when the car first came off of the dealership floor) when the car was over 70 mph. Now I can go up to 75 mph and still get no less than 35 mpg. I did drive from Wash, D. C. to Carlisle, Penn and got 35 mpg. Before I would have gotten 33 mpg. Which means the 150+ bucks that I spent on this will pay for itself. The additional plus in there is NO additional noise on this air intake noise unlike other CAI intakes.
 

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Don't believe the numbers these manufacturers claim their intakes make. Without re-calibrating the ECM/PCM (i.e. getting tuned) to take advantage of the extra airflow, you aren't making squat. Maybe 1hp @ 6500rpm if anything at all. That being said, I'm still an advocate of aftermarket intakes (particularly CAIs) because the sound they make is like a siren's song calling to your right foot to keep it on the go pedal. That sound is a result of the two resonators being deleted in the stock intake system. You removed one of those resonators with your intake tube, which may be why it's still relatively quiet. Good move picking up a K&N drop in.

Very strange that they'd supply an obviously oversized elbow for their kit. Did you buy it used off of somebody? Perhaps they upgraded to an LE5 or LSJ TB. If you're looking for more couplers in the future, I'd recommend siliconeintakes.com. Their prices seem a little more reasonable then the $80 you spent on your coupler.

Food for thought: I got an occasional P0171 from my Injen CAI. Not sure if it was a direct result of the intake or not, but it became so annoying after time that I bought a cheapo scanner to keep in my car just to clear it.
 

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Yup, tons of tests done to prove that in most cases a cai actually hurts performance. However they do sound great.


Sent from the sexy electrician
 

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Another new guy w/ a sai statement

I have an 07 lt coupe that i installed the injen cai & for the sai i just installed a smaller k&n cone filter. The sai has its own pump to draw air in & just needs to be filtered. Is this a bad idea if so why, I've put about 3000 miles on her & haven't seen any sai codes or performance problems. My problem is code p0172 (bank 1 too rich) w a cai to draw more air & cat bat to let it out. Ideas why i pulling rich code
 

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If you oiled the filter, there's a fair chance the oil got onto your MAF and is screwing with the airflow readings. Inspect it and clean it if necessary.

There's also a possibility your injectors may be fowled up. Run some injector cleaner through the tank and see if that'll improve your situation.
 

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The k&n filters are notorious for throwing codes. Easiest way is to clean it, then pack it with paper towels over night to get the oils out.
Either that or swap it with a AEM dry flow filter.
 
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